By: Nancy LT Hamilton
Last updated: 11/2/20, 4/10/20, 6/21/19, 11/25/17
There are many videos available on my YouTube Channel – currently almost 130 of them! (as of June 21, 2019). Check out my channel and spend a day, a week, or a month learning something new!
- Adjustable Ring Shank Pattern
- Basic Bail Patterns
- Cuff Patterns
- DIY Bench Pin
- End Caps – Crimp style. Aka: Fold-over Crimps
- Fancy Bail Patterns
- Fold-over Bail Pattern
- Multi-Petaled Flower Pattern
- Split Card Setting – Elegant stone setting
- Pin Back or Brooch Back Patterns – Jewelry Making
- Saddle Ring Patterns – includes a video of how I designed the ring pattern and instructions
- Whale’s Tail Pendant Pattern
- Wire Clasp Patterns
Check out my Projects Page too!
Information on attaching and adjusting patterns
- I cut close to the patterns to allow me to see the metal beneath the pattern. This allows for more efficient use of the metal and creates less waste.
- I glue my patterns to the metal. First, I sand the area with 400g wet-dry sandpaper. This removes dirt and also gives the glue a little “tooth” to hold onto. I either print my patterns on Avery Shipping Labels (full sheets) or use a glue stick to attach the pattern. Wait 10-15 minutes until the glue dries.
- After sawing, I soak the pattern and metal in water (for the glue stick method), or with the Avery method, I try to pry off the label. If stuck, I soak off the paper and either use a green scrubby: Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Scouring Pads and soapy water or employ a little “Goo Gone“.
- I also like to glue two sheets of metal together to be able to get two pieces from one sawing session. I use Cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) for this process. I sand the two sides that will be facing each other, with 400 or 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper first and then wipe off the metal dust. Then clamp them together with small metal spring clamps. Adding a tooth to the metal helps the glue to hold. Warning: the glue sets FAST! You will probably only be able to place it once so, have a good aim!
TIP: Spread the glue with a toothpick that has had one end pounded flat. These make great disposable brushes!
- To separate the sheets of metal, after sawing and sanding, I use my torch to burn off the superglue and to release the bond. There are NASTY FUMES produced so, you need great ventilation – if you can smell it, it’s not working!
TIP: While the metal is glued together and after sawing, you can sand your edges so that the pieces come out exactly the same. Great for matching halves and also for cleaning up two sets of edges at one time! Booyah!
- Another way to remove the superglue is to soak the pieces in Acetone. Once again, VENTILATION, gloves, masks, goggles!
- The patterns can be resized with a photo editing software app like Photoshop or Pixlr Editor. Please see my webpage: Photo Editing Software for some of the programs available – some even free!
- Beginning Jewelry Projects: Making and Soldering a Pendant
- Beginning Jewelry Projects: Making and Soldering a Pearl Ring
- How to Make a Domed Ring: Parts One, Two, and Three
- How to Make a Metal Cuff Bracelet: Parts One and Two
- How to Make a Ring: Parts One, Two, and Three
- How to Make Chain: The Fly-Eye and Loop-in-loop Chains.
- Making a Solderless Bead: Part One and Part Two.
- Stone Setting: Creating a Frame Setting for Cabochons: Parts One, Two, and Three
- See my videos: Creating Patterns for Jewelry Design. How to Make Metal Flowers – Part 1 and How to Make Metal Flowers – Part 2.
- See my videos: Brooches and Pin Backs Part One and Brooches and Pin Backs Part Two.
- Wire-Working, Intermediate Shapes – Bails, and Links
- Soldering Jewelry: How to Solder Settings, Bails, and Wire
- Two Bails and a Clasp
- Creating Patterns For Jewelry Design
- Check out my videos that talk about clasps: How to make a hook and eye clasp part one of 4. Two Bails and a Clasp.