Materials for a Fume/Soldering Ventilation System with Ideas and Links for an Optional Particulate Ventilation System
Contents
Why Do I Need Ventilation?
Regarding fume ventilation: Ventilation of fumes and particulate matter is essential for all jewelers and anyone whose work/art creates fumes. Enameling, glass bead making, electronics, jewelry making, metalsmiths, goldsmiths, metalworkers, blacksmiths, etc., all produce fumes that need to be vented away from your precious lungs.
Regarding particulate ventilation: the products used in finishing, as well as the process of finishing itself, produce very fine particles of dust. These particles are the most dangerous and can permanently damage your health. I like to say that the smaller the particle, the deeper it goes. The effects of inhaling these particulates are often not seen for years. Some byproducts of finishing can pose a threat not only to you but also to the environment, your family, and your pets. So, please, take care of yourself and create wisely and safely. Please!
Note to people using soldering irons: You need ventilation too! Please check out the following links, and don’t forget to review the MSDS and SDS for the products you use. They are easily (sometimes) found either at the supplier’s website or at the manufacturer’s website (They need to be found here, at least. It’s nice when the suppliers also have an MSDS). Both the solder AND the flux (even if it is odorless) have chemicals in them that you DO NOT WANT IN YOUR BODY. The easiest way for these little devils to invade your pristine internal organs is through fumes. So, get a fume ventilation system or go sit in the yard and solder. (Not when it is raining or snowing, though – don’t want you getting electrocuted!)
***The following companies and their products are not being singled out as dangerous. They were randomly chosen to represent a sample of the available fluxes and solders. Please find and read the MSDS for the flux and/or solder that you use. (Wow, what a nag – Nancy has already harped on this TWICE already!) Learn which chemicals are present in your materials and their associated health risks. Keep those lungs pink and perky!
Thanks, Scraps at YouTube, for bringing the soldering iron, its solder, and fluxes to my attention!
My New Soldering Area Fume Ventilation System
The system, described below, can be used over your soldering area, under your soldering area, next to your soldering area, behind your soldering area, etc. Venting can be done through a window, through a wall, or through the ceiling. In the case of a ceiling-mounted system, place the hood behind your soldering area so that the fumes don’t flow by your face first!
The instructions below are for the fume ventilation system that I created for my jewelry soldering area. You can build this setup for about $124 (2016 prices, plus shipping and tax if applicable). A lot cheaper than a kitchen hood. This fan is 340 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute). Please see my video on the Fume Ventilation System below.
CFM is the amount of air exchanged per minute. For comparison, think about how many cubic feet your room is: Length X Width X Height = Cubic Feet. A 10′ long by 10′ wide by 8′ high room would have a volume of 800 CF. So, with the 340 CFM fan, almost half the air in the room will be exchanged in a minute. The higher the CFM, the more air is exchanged. You also want a fan with enough pull to drag the fumes away from you – without having to have the fan right on top of you. A hood helps focus the suction and keep the fumes near the fan. A hood doesn’t guarantee that all the fumes are directly under it. Just like in the kitchen, if you can smell it, it ain’t going out!
(2) Hose Clamps (9” or more in diameter) or Zip Ties to hold ducting to the fan and wall cap. US dollars: 3 – 5
Wall Cap for venting ducting to the outside wall or window – any type will do – you need some type of screening for the outside vent, otherwise, the rats and mice will be charging through the house – en masse! Also, if venting to the roof, you will need a roof vent and someone who knows what they are doing to install it! Otherwise, it’s rats and rain. US dollars: 18-25, without labor. (Wish I had a three-year-old to blame this drawing on)
When venting through a window, purchase a piece of clear acrylic and have it cut to fit the ducting diameter. Leave a few inches surrounding the hole for strength. The length should be sufficient to entirely fill the open window area. Cut a 6” (or 4”) hole in the plastic and run your ducting out of the hole. You can use silicone around the edge where the hole and the ducting meet, spray-in insulation like Touch ‘n Foam, or duct tape. You can also use the wall cap in this situation, along with the flange (see below). You might want to avoid venting at face level if your window is on a sidewalk. See the artistically executed illustration below (ahem).
Here’s a real-life example from Peterm @ Shopsmith Forums. Nice work Peterm! Mine probably wouldn’t be so pretty and neat!!!
Optional
Duct Tape – Use this to secure the ducting to the fan and wall cap, reducing the risk of fumes escaping from your system.
Instructions for Putting the Fume Ventilation Setup Together
Assemble all necessary parts (duh!) I started by putting the parts of the fan together (see #2 below – might be easier to cut the mesh first). You’ll need a Phillips head screwdriver and something to help hold up the fan while you screw the screws in (you’ll see what I mean). Husbands/wives and trainable children are handy for this task, as is a chunk of wood or, as I used, a ceramic block. Not a comparison. Not!
Create a screen for the front of the fan. Keeps out cattails (why are they up there anyway?), fingers, and long hair (that should be tied back anyway). Discourages flying metal from being sucked into your yard. You can use craft mesh or metal window screening. It might be best to use metal, since it is near your soldering area, rather than plastic or nylon. It is recommended to keep flammable materials away from the soldering area. Trace the front circular area of the fan with a Sharpie and cut out the shape with scissors. You could do this before putting the stand together – probably easier.
Cut strips of duct tape to attach mesh, or just wrap a piece around the mesh and the protruding front piece. I like to use a scalpel to cut duct tape. Using scissors can drive you mad.
Stretch out your hose/ducting so that it reaches your outside ventilation area AND the place where the fan will be placed. Might as well flare the end. This helps it to fit onto the male receptacle without too much swearing.
Wrangle the ducting onto the back (the part that sticks out and looks like a tube) and pull it close to the fan i.e.: a snug fit. Cut off a few pieces of duct tape and tape all the way around the ducting and the fan.
6. Create outside ventilation area: window, wall or ceiling. Put in a wall cap, a window cap, or a roof vent. Attach the ducting to the vent with hose clamps, zip ties, or duct tape. I would also do whatever is recommended by your roofer/assistant/partner – especially for wall and ceiling venting. For a more finished look, use a flange on the interior wall, ceiling, or window. See Peterm’s example above.
7. Plug in the speed controller.
8. Make fumes!
Dust Collection
When venting particulates, you must have a way to contain the particles. This keeps the particulate matter from getting into the environment- see below. There is also the option of wearing an N100 Particulate mask that filters out 99.97% of respirable particles. The fit of the mask is very important. There should be no leakage. Fit the metal band around your nose so that no mist forms on your glasses. Breathing is a little more difficult with a mask on, and wearing one all day can cause fatigue. Read the instructions that come with your mask.
Please read the following article – especially if collecting in the house. About Filtration.
Here’s a little chart to ponder from OSHA:
To filter out the most damaging dust particles, a “certified HEPA filter” is required. The most damaging particulates are the smallest and the ones that usually escape most filtration systems. Many shop vacs offer Certified HEPA Filtration. Here are a few: Vacmaster, Dustless Technologies, and Rigid. A system like Rockler Dust Right Wall Mount (from the reviews I’ve read, the hose is not the best. You could replace it with a clear PVC hose) could be mounted on a protected (from the elements) exterior wall. It is recommended that the dust be collected either beneath the area where you are generating the dust or behind. The important thing to remember is not to have the dust go by your face first.
(Still looking for a 3-year-old to blame for these drawings)
Jewelry suppliers also have dust collection systems like this Handler Porta Vac Dust Collector at Esslinger. Rio Grande, Otto Frei, FDJTool, Gesswein, Esslinger, and many others offer dust collection systems – they aren’t cheap, but how much does the loss of work, early death, chronic lung disease, and a slew of other health issues cost you and your family?
Here are some videos and websites that may inspire your dust collection dreams:
Carol Minnich: DIY Dust Collector (I’d put the Vac outside (protected from the elements) and add an on/off switch inside)
With the woodworking references, don’t forget: you can go small-scale on the buckets, as jewelers don’t generate anywhere near as much dust as woodworkers. You can use a 2-gallon bucket like this one at Amazon.
Some of the pricier exhaust systems from jewelry suppliers have filters that can be sent in for refining. If you are working with gold, platinum, or a ton of silver, it could be worth your while to collect the metal dust and refine it. For most small-scale jewelers, though, safety and dust removal are of the utmost concern.
Dura-BULL Direct Flow Dust Collection System
Don’t forget: copper and copper-bearing dust (brass, bronze) are deadly to many forms of life. It shouldn’t be anywhere near water. So, unless it never rains at your home, you should have a contained collection system for the dust and contact local authorities on how to dispose of it. The amount of dust generated by a jeweler is minimal compared with that in the woodworking industry, but it can still be dangerous!
You could use a bag like this for dust collection. It’s a replacement bag for the Dura-BULL Direct Flow Polishing System, but you can just duct tape it to the end of your ducting – which is away from you – preferably outside and stick it in a bucket. I’m not 100% sure how well the Dura-Bull bag would work for this system, but in theory, it should.
“Q: How long can a particulate respirator be used before it must be discarded?
A: Respirators with replaceable filters are reusable, and a respirator classified as disposable may be reused by the same worker as long as it functions properly. All filters must be replaced whenever they are damaged, soiled, or causing noticeably increased breathing resistance (e.g., causing discomfort to the wearer). Before each use, the outside of the filter material should be inspected. If the filter material is physically damaged or soiled, the filter should be changed (in the case of respirators with replaceable filters) or the respirator discarded (in the case of disposable respirators). Always follow the respirator filter manufacturer’s service-time-limit recommendations.”
Q: If employees have a beard or mustache, is their respirator still effective?
A: Tight-fitting facepiece respirators must not be worn by employees who have facial hair that comes between the sealing surface of the facepiece and the face, or that interferes with valve function. Respirators that do not rely on a tight face seal, such as hoods or helmets, may be used by bearded individuals.
Wall Cap for venting ducting to the outside wall or window – any type will do – you need some type of screening for the outside vent, otherwise, the rats and mice will be charging through the house – en masse! Also, if venting to the roof, you will need a roof vent and someone who knows what they are doing to install it! Otherwise, it’s rats and rain. US dollars: 18-25, without labor.
See Peterm’s example above.
Steel Hood with Hose from Rio Grande
(Still looking for a 3-year-old to blame for these drawings)
Dura-BULL Direct Flow Dust Collection System 
You could use a bag like this for dust collection. It’s a replacement bag for the Dura-BULL Direct Flow Polishing System, but you can just duct tape it to the end of your ducting – which is away from you – preferably outside and stick it in a bucket. I’m not 100% sure how well the Dura-Bull bag would work for this system, but in theory, it should.