By: Nancy LT Hamilton

Last updated: 2/8/18

My Craftsy video is live! Check out: Prong Settings from Start to Finish now!

In the video, I show you how to create three settings that will help you to create professional looking jewelry and brings your designs to life.

Coral, bezel and post setting. (Point of Contention ring)

Contents

1 Stones – Cabochons
2 Stones – Faceted
3 Setting types and/or names.
4 Setting Tools – Making and Buying
5 For Further Research
6 Related Videos
7 Related Webpages

Stones – Cabochons

The parts of a cabochon are: the Crown or Dome, the Girdle and the Base. Cabochons can have beveled or parallel walls at the base.

Standard cut cabochon

Cabochons are usually polished. They generally are domed and have smooth, rounded tops. The bottom of a cabochon is either flat or beveled, slightly. But, they can be flat (Buff top) topped too. They come in many shapes and sizes. The type of stone varies but, they are usually opaque or transparent. Transparent stones aren’t often used as they are reserved for faceting. The reason is that the transparent stones reflect and refract light and are therefore well suited for faceting.

Common cab shapes:

Buff-top – see image above of labradorite
Bullet – Shorter Bullet Elongated Bullet
Double – Domed on both sides
High Dome – High dome onyx from Rio Grande Jewelry
Irregular
Low Dome
Standard
Tongue

Stones – Faceted

There are two basic types of faceting: Trap or Step Cuts and Triangular or Kite-shaped Cuts. A round brilliant diamond (58 facets) employs triangular facets and an emerald cut stone is usually Trap/Step faceted. Some stones have a combination of triangular and step faceting.

Round Brilliant from Rio Grande uses Triangular/Kite-Shaped cuts.

Emerald Cut Stones in a beautiful ring by Diamonds by Lauren. Trap or Step cuts are used.

Close up, you can really see the differences.

There are even stones that are cabbed and faceted. A Rose Cut stone has a faceted top and a flat bottom.

Round – Usually brilliant cut. The brilliant cut has 58 facets. The most popular cut.

Any stone that is not round, is considered a fancy cut stone.

Rose-Cut Treated Black Diamond from Rio Grande.

There are a zillion (well, maybe not that many) shapes out there in gemland. I’m not going to list them all but, will show you pretty pictures of some of the more common shapes.

Baguette – The baguette has stepped-cuts similar to an emerald cut stone. They usually have 24 facets and are cheaper than round or emerald cut diamonds. Usually used as side stones. They are not as brilliant as round cut stones.
Baguette, Tapered – Essentially, a tapered baguette.
Cushion Cut – Square or rectangular stones with subtly curving sides.
Emerald Cut – A rectangular stone with the corners cut off. AKA: Octagon. Usually step-cut.
Heart – Well, a heart shaped stone!
Marquise – Pointed on both ends with curved sides.
Oval – Considered a Fancy gemstone because it is more difficult to cut than a round stone.
Pear – Teardrop or pear shaped.
Princess – A deeper, relatively new cut. See additional information below. Princess cuts tend to be cheaper because the cut allows for more efficient use of the material. The quality of the material is usually of a higher quality for this type of cut.
Square – 4 equal sides. Similar to a Princess cut square.
Triangular – Many different shapes.
Trillion – Triangular with (usually) gently bowing sides. Trillions are usually Brilliant cut.

More to come:

Setting types and/or names.

Some settings have several names.

Applied prongs
Backset/Reverse Bezels
Basket (or Wire Setting)
Bead
Bearing/Shoulder Bezels
Bezel
Built-up
Bullet and Tongue Settings
Caged
Cap
Channel
Cluster
Combo
Conical Settings/Mounts
Crown (or Coronet)
Cup Bezels
Cup: for beads, pearls, split peg
Domed
Double Bezels
Emerald Cut Bezels
Fancy Settings
Fishtail
Flush
Grain Settings
Graver: Pavé, Bead, Raised stitches, etc.
Gypsy
Interchangable
Invisible
Marquise Bezels
Marquise Wire Settings
Micro-pavé
Mitered Prongs
Modified Bezels/Irregular Bezels
Octagonal Wire Settings
Pavé
Pear-Shaped Bezels
Pearl Settings
Picture Tab Settings (may aka as a frame setting)
Pin Point
Prong Settings for Irregular Objects and Stones
Protective
Rectangular and Square Bezels
Rectangular Wire Setting
Rub-over
Slotted/Modular Setting
Snap Settings
Spectacle
Square grain
Square Wire Setting
Straight-Sided Bezels/Mounts
Swivel
Tap Settings
Tapered bezel
Tension
Triangular Wire Setting
Tube Settings
Upside-down
Wired

Setting Tools – Making and Buying

not done yet

For Further Research

AGSL – The American Gem Society Laboratories
AGTA (the American Gem Trade Association) – Gemstone information.
Bryan Johnson – Gemstone information, blog, etc.
Beyond 4Cs that has 23 links to free gemology courses and information.
Diamonds Pro – well, information on diamonds.
Gemstone Cuts and Shapes. E-Jewel by Livini Designs. No author. No date. Web.
Gemology Online
GIA’s Gem Encyclopedia
Hoover and Strong – Hoover Azure Anniversary Bands – discusses what an azure is.
The International Gem Society
Jewelry Secrets.com – Lots of information on diamonds. This link is to information on the Princess Cut.
Minerals.Net – Gemstone Directory on rocks, minerals and gemstones.
Royal Asscher – Information on the patented Royal Asscher Cut.
White Flash – Information on AGSL Diamond Cut Grading – The Princess Cut