Nancy LT Hamilton
Last updated: 111/30/22, 0/14/22, 11/17/21, 11/2/21, 4/10/20, 2/8/18
I have a video on Craftsy: Prong Setting from Start to Finish. It covers three types of prong settings that you’ll want to know!
Other Stone-Setting Pages on this website
- Soldering Stone Settings – Learn how to solder stone settings to your work. Common soldering issues and melt-down avoidance tips are included.
- Bezel Making and Setting. Learn to make bezel strip and set a bezel. Information on how to fix too-small or too-large bezel settings and solutions to other setting problems.
- Split Card Setting for an easy, elegant setting.
- Setting a Pear-Shaped Stone
- Prong Settings for Irregularly-Shaped Stones
- Setting Burs – Google Sheet
- Flush Setting Four Ways
My Stone-Setting Videos
Stone-Setting: Flush Setting Three Ways, Part 1
Stone-Setting: Flush Setting Three Ways, Part 2
Stone-Setting: Flush Setting Three Ways, Part 3
Easy Marquise Stone-Setting: Part 1
The Split-Shank Marquise Ring: Part 2 – This video shows you how to make the ring for the marquise setting.
Setting a Marquise Stone for Faceted and Cabochon Gemstones: Part 3
The “Frame” Setting
3 Ways to Tube-Set a Stone, Part 1
3 Ways to Tube Set a Stone: Part 2
Stone-Setting: Prong Settings for Unusually-Shaped Stones
How to Make a Bezel and Set a Cabochon: Part 1
How to Make a Bezel and Set a Cabochon: Part 2
How to Use Snap-Set Settings
I have several charts that may help you to determine ring blank lengths. Try them all and see which one works for you!
I have a Craftsy Video called: Prong Settings from Start to Finish.
Learn how to create three different prong settings that will help you to create professional-looking jewelry and brings your designs to life.
Stones – Cabochons
The parts of a cabochon are: the Crown or Dome, the Girdle and the Base. Cabochons can have beveled or parallel walls at the base.
Cabochons are usually polished. They generally are domed and have smooth, rounded tops. The bottom of a cabochon is either flat or beveled, slightly. But, they can be flat (Buff top) topped too. They come in many shapes and sizes. The type of stone varies but, they are usually opaque or transparent. Transparent stones aren’t often used as they are reserved for faceting. The reason is that the transparent stones reflect and refract light and are therefore well suited for faceting.
Common cab shapes:
- Buff-top – see image above of labradorite
- Bullet – Shorter Bullet Elongated Bullet
- Double – Domed on both sides
- High Dome – High dome onyx from Rio Grande Jewelry
- Low Dome
Stones – Faceted
There are two basic types of faceting: Trap or Step Cuts and Triangular or Kite-shaped Cuts. A round brilliant diamond (58 facets) employs triangular facets and an emerald-cut stone is usually Trap/Step faceted. Some stones have a combination of triangular and step-faceting.
Round Brilliant from Rio Grande uses Triangular/Kite-Shaped cuts.
Emerald-cut stones in a beautiful ring by Diamonds by Lauren. Trap or Step cuts are used.
Close up, you can really see the differences.
There are even stones that are cabbed and faceted. A Rose Cut stone has a faceted top and a flat bottom.
Any stone that is not round, is considered a fancy cut stone.
There is a zillion (well, maybe not that many) shapes out there in gemland. I’m not going to list them all but, will show you pretty pictures of some of the more common shapes.
- Baguette – The baguette has stepped cuts similar to an emerald-cut stone. They usually have 24 facets and are cheaper than round or emerald-cut diamonds. Usually used as side stones. They are not as brilliant as round cut stones.
- Baguette, Tapered – Essentially, a tapered baguette.
- Cushion-Cut – Square or rectangular stones with subtly curving sides.
- Emerald-Cut – A rectangular stone with the corners cut off. AKA: Octagon. Usually step-cut.
- Heart – Well, a heart-shaped stone!
- Marquise – Pointed on both ends with curved sides.
- Oval – Considered a Fancy gemstone because it is more difficult to cut than a round stone.
- Pear – Teardrop or pear-shaped.
- Princess – A deeper, relatively new cut. See additional information below. Princess cuts tend to be cheaper because the cut allows for more efficient use of the material. The quality of the material is usually of a higher quality for this type of cut.
- Square – 4 equal sides. Similar to a Princess cut square.
- Triangular – Many different shapes.
- Trillion – Triangular with (usually) gently bowing sides. Trillions are usually Brilliant cut.
Setting types and/or names.
Some settings have several names – not all are listed. If I have a video or web page that deals with that type of setting, I’ve supplied a link.
- Applied prongs
- Backset/Reverse Bezels
- Basket (or Wire Setting) – See my Craftsy Video
- Bearing/Shoulder Bezels/Stepped Bezels
- Conical Settings/Mounts
- Crown (or Coronet)
- Cup: for beads, pearls, split peg
- Double Bezels
- Emerald-Cut Bezels
- Flush Setting Three Ways – Part 1 of 3
- Grain Settings
- Graver: Pavé, Bead, Raised stitches, etc.
- Marquise Bezels – Part 1 of 3 Parts
- Marquise Wire Settings
- Modified Bezels/Irregular Bezels
- Octagonal Wire Settings
- Pear-Shaped Bezels
- Pearl Settings
- Picture Tab Settings (aka as a frame setting)
- Prong Settings for Irregular Objects and Stones, Also see my web page.
- Rectangular and Square Bezels
- Slotted/Modular Setting/Split Card Setting
- Snap Settings
- Square Wire Setting
- Straight-Sided Bezels/Mounts
Setting Tools – Making and Buying
See my Flush Setting Video: Part 1 at 5:28 to make a flush setting burnisher.
Make your own Bezel Punch by following these directions from my page and videos on Making Chasing and Repousse Tools
My Google Sheet on Setting Burs – sizes and types with some information on azures, cutting openings, etc.
For Further Research
- AGTA (the American Gem Trade Association) – Gemstone information.
- Bryan Johnson – Gemstone information, blog, etc.
- Beyond 4Cs has 23 links to free gemology courses and information.
- Diamonds Pro – well, information on diamonds.
- Gemstone Cuts and Shapes. E-Jewel by Livini Designs. No author. No date. Web.
- Gemology Online
- GIA’s Gem Encyclopedia
- Hoover and Strong – Hoover Azure Anniversary Bands – discusses what an azure is.
- The International Gem Society
- Jewelry Secrets.com – Lots of information on diamonds. This link is to information on the Princess Cut.
- Minerals.Net – Gemstone Directory on rocks, minerals, and gemstones.
- Royal Asscher – Information on the patented Royal Asscher Cut.
- White Flash – Information on AGSL Diamond Cut Grading – The Princess Cut