By: Nancy LT Hamilton

Last  updated:  11/17/21, 11/2/21, 4/10/20, 2/8/18

Also see my page,  Split Card Setting for an easy, elegant setting.

I have several charts that may help you to determine ring blank lengths.  Try them all and see which one works for you!

I’ve also got a Adjustable Ring Shank Pattern

Title-Card-Prong-settings-from-start-to-finish   My Craftsy video is live!  Check out:  Prong Settings from Start to Finish now! 

In the video, I show you how to create three settings that will help you to create professional-looking jewelry and brings your designs to life.

  Coral, bezel, and post setting. (Point of Contention ring)

Stones – Cabochons


The parts of a cabochon are:  the Crown or Dome, the Girdle and the Base. Cabochons can have beveled or parallel walls at the base.

cab-standard Standard cut cabochon

Cabochons are usually polished.  They generally are domed and have smooth, rounded tops. The bottom of a cabochon is either flat or beveled, slightly. But, they can be flat (Buff top) topped too.  flat-top-labThey come in many shapes and sizes. The type of stone varies but, they are usually opaque or transparent.  Transparent stones aren’t often used as they are reserved for faceting.  The reason is that the transparent stones reflect and refract light and are therefore well suited for faceting.

Common cab shapes:

  • Buff-top – see image above of labradorite
  • Bullet – cab-bullet-2  Shorter Bullet cab-bullet Elongated Bullet
  • Double – Domed on both sides
  • High Dome – cab-high-dome High dome onyx from Rio Grande Jewelry
  • Irregular
  • Low Dome
  • Standard
  • Tongue

Stones – Faceted


There are two basic types of faceting:  Trap or Step Cuts and Triangular or Kite-shaped Cuts.  A round brilliant diamond (58 facets) employs triangular facets and an emerald-cut stone is usually Trap/Step faceted. Some stones have a combination of triangular and step-faceting.

facet-brilliant Round Brilliant from Rio Grande uses Triangular/Kite-Shaped cuts.

faceted-emerald-cut Emerald-cut stones in a beautiful ring by Diamonds by LaurenTrap or Step cuts are used. 

Close up, you can really see the differences.

facet-triangular    faceted-step

There are even stones that are cabbed and faceted.  A Rose Cut stone has a faceted top and a flat bottom.

facet-round  Round – Usually brilliant cut. The brilliant cut has 58 facets. The most popular cut.

Any stone that is not round, is considered a fancy cut stone.

faceted-rose-cut Rose-Cut Treated Black Diamond from Rio Grande.

There is a zillion (well, maybe not that many) shapes out there in gemland.  I’m not going to list them all but, will show you pretty pictures of some of the more common shapes.

  • baguette Baguette – The baguette has stepped cuts similar to an emerald-cut stone. They usually have 24 facets and are cheaper than round or emerald-cut diamonds. Usually used as side stones.  They are not as brilliant as round cut stones.
  • tapered-baguette Baguette, Tapered – Essentially, a tapered baguette.
  •  facet-cushion  Cushion-Cut – Square or rectangular stones with subtly curving sides.
  •  facert-emerald   Emerald-Cut – A rectangular stone with the corners cut off. AKA: Octagon. Usually step-cut.
  •  facet-heart  Heart – Well, a heart-shaped stone!
  •  facet-marquise  Marquise – Pointed on both ends with curved sides.
  • facet-oval  Oval – Considered a Fancy gemstone because it is more difficult to cut than a round stone.
  •  facet-pear   Pear – Teardrop or pear-shaped.
  • facet-square  Princess – A deeper, relatively new cut.  See additional information below.  Princess cuts tend to be cheaper because the cut allows for more efficient use of the material.  The quality of the material is usually of a higher quality for this type of cut.
  • square-cut-stones Square – 4 equal sides. Similar to a Princess cut square.
  • triangular-stone Triangular – Many different shapes.
  •  facet-trillion  Trillion – Triangular with (usually) gently bowing sides.  Trillions are usually Brilliant cut.

More to come:

Setting types and/or names.  

Some settings have several names.

  • Applied prongs
  • Backset/Reverse Bezels
  • Basket (or Wire Setting)
  • Bead
  • Bearing/Shoulder Bezels
  • Bezel
  • Built-up
  • Bullet and Tongue Settings
  • Caged
  • Cap
  • Channel
  • Cluster
  • Combo
  • Conical Settings/Mounts
  • Crown (or Coronet)
  • Cup Bezels
  • Cup: for beads, pearls, split peg
  • Domed
  • Double Bezels
  • Emerald-Cut Bezels
  • Fancy Settings
  • Fishtail
  • Flush set CZ

    Flush – coming soon (11/17/21)

  • Grain Settings
  • Graver:  Pavé, Bead, Raised stitches, etc.
  • Gypsy
  • Interchangeable
  • Invisible
  • Marquise Bezels
  • Marquise Wire Settings
  • Micro-pavé
  • Mitered Prongs
  • Modified Bezels/Irregular Bezels
  • Octagonal Wire Settings
  • Pavé
  • Pear-Shaped Bezels
  • Pearl Settings
  • Picture Tab Settings  (may aka as a frame setting)
  • Pinpoint
  • Prong setting for an irregularly shaped stone – the Rock Candy Ring

        Prong Settings for Irregular Objects and Stones

  • Protective
  • Rectangular and Square Bezels
  • Rectangular Wire Setting
  • Rub-over
  • Slotted/Modular Setting
  • Snap Settings
  • Spectacle
  • Square grain
  • Square Wire Setting
  • Straight-Sided Bezels/Mounts
  • Swivel
  • Tab set pierced metal with tube-set diamonds

    Tab Settings

  • Tapered bezel
  • Tension
  • Triangular Wire Setting
  • Tube Settings
  • Upside-down
  • Wired

Setting Tools – Making and Buying

not done yet

For Further Research

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